Gökçe Günel, Spaceship in the Desert: Energy, Climate Change, and Urban Design in Abu Dhabi (New Texts Out Now)

Gökçe Günel, Spaceship in the Desert: Energy, Climate Change, and Urban Design in Abu Dhabi (New Texts Out Now)

Gökçe Günel, Spaceship in the Desert: Energy, Climate Change, and Urban Design in Abu Dhabi (New Texts Out Now)

By : Gökçe Günel

[This NEWTON is part of the new Environment Page launch. All accompanying launch posts can be found here.]

Gökçe Günel, Spaceship in the Desert: Energy, Climate Change, and Urban Design in Abu Dhabi (Duke University Press, 2019).

Jadaliyya (J): What made you write this book?

Gökçe Günel (GG): The book grew out of a wish to examine the social lives of large-scale urban design projects. In the year 2008, I visited the United Arab Emirates for the first time, where many such projects were under construction. Masdar City was fascinating, because its planners not only offered insights about urban design, but also proposed innovative ways of imagining energy and climate futures. Designed by London-based architecture office Foster + Partners, the eco-city cost twenty-two billion dollars and would house fifty thousand residents and forty thousand commuters on a six hundred-hectare site. The site neighbored the Abu Dhabi International Airport, the Yas Marina Formula One Circuit, and the Al Ghazal Golf Course. I was drawn to thinking more deeply about how energy and climate-related issues would shape our understandings of cities. I gained access to the project thanks to faculty members and administrators at Masdar Institute—the energy-focused research center that was set up inside Masdar City by Massachusetts Institute of Technology’s (MIT) Technology and Development Program, which has now been shut down. Although my initial interest in the project centered on architectural and urban problems, Spaceship in the Desert answers a wider range of questions regarding how oil-rich economies prepare for a future with less oil, while also studying emergent business models and technological developments.

... technical adjustments obfuscate the simple realization that humans cannot continue to live and consume as they do.

J: What particular topics, issues, and literatures does the book address?

GG: Spaceship in the Desert mainly analyzes an aspiration to build what I label a “status quo utopia.” The planners of Masdar City aspired to keep existing social, political, and economic relations intact in a bounded environment, offering stability against the disruptive consequences of climate change and possible energy scarcity. For them, the status quo was a best-case scenario. Yet decision-makers in the Abu Dhabi government knew that their oil wealth was not reliable in the long run. Oil prices fluctuated, reservoirs were finite, and global demand for oil could fall drastically in the future. Under these conditions, what would be the right means for securing the status quo? Urban design solutions, new business models and technological innovations, or what I call “technical adjustments” emerged as significant tools for ensuring that contemporary social, political, and economic relations could be extended far into the future. 

Broadly speaking, I understand these technical adjustments as imaginative and wide-ranging responses to global climate change and energy scarcity, which open up certain interventions (such as extending technological complexity) while foreclosing others (such as asking larger-scale moral, ethical, and political questions regarding how to live). While producing innovative and at times fun artifacts, technical adjustments obfuscate the simple realization that humans cannot continue to live and consume as they do. The adjustments I observed at Masdar City involved market-oriented technical fixes—such as green buildings, research into renewable energy and clean technology, novel ways of imagining exchange, innovative designs for vehicles, and new global governance mechanisms. The book has five chapters, and each chapter looks at one of these technical adjustments in detail. In thinking through these artifacts, Spaceship in the Desert draws on a broad range of scholarship in anthropology, history of science, geography, and science and technology studies.

J: Could you talk about the title of the book, Spaceship in the Desert

GG: Laura, an American graduate student at Masdar Institute described Masdar City as a “spaceship in the desert” on a blog post in September 2010, and her description quickly became very popular. In the book, I analyze this metaphor, and show how space technologies have inspired ecologically sensitive architecture since the 1960s. By occupying buildings inspired by space technologies, humanity would behave like astronauts with clear outer space missions. The spaceship itself is a finite, technically sophisticated, and insular habitat for an exclusive group of astronauts facing an outside world of crises. It signifies enclosure, archiving, selection, hierarchy, movement, and—most importantly—the maintenance of strict boundaries between interior and exterior spaces. As an ark that will help save a select few, it promotes a technocratic and exclusive universalism, and produces the outside as a vacuum that should not be inhabited. In this context, the desert becomes an otherworldly, devastated space, suitable for settler-colonial interventions. A common setting for science fiction films, the desert is also a frontier that awaits exploration. 

Although technocratic sensibilities of a spaceship in the desert appear to erase politics, ethnographic research is helpful in showing that this is not the case. For instance, during my fieldwork I witnessed how six students who were about to enter into their second year as master’s students at Masdar Institute were expelled from the institution and told that they had one month before they would be deported from the country. No one explained to the students why exactly they were being asked to leave, but soon they figured it out. These six students were the only Shi‘a in the Institute. Sectarian politics of the United Arab Emirates made themselves known in this seemingly futuristic, expertise-driven context. Educational institutions, such as MIT, participated in solidifying the boundaries of the spaceship. The book features many other examples regarding technocratic practices on the spaceship that verged on what some of my interlocutors called a “technocratic dictatorship,” and it analyzes the various forms of boundary making.

J: Who do you hope will read this book, and what sort of impact would you like it to have?

GG: My goal was to write a legible book that sheds some light on urban design, energy, and climate change issues. Like all authors, I hope it will be read widely. Not only among students and academics, but also among environmental activists, technology professionals, architects and urban planners, user experience researchers, climate change policy makers, and energy experts. The book charts the dreams, cosmologies, and technical skills of people who produce knowledge regarding energy and climate change, while situating them within larger social and economic global transformations. In many ways it seeks to hold a mirror to these experts, and I hope it will slightly shift how they see and do their work. 

Beyond its thematic foci, I think the book provides a vivid portrait of the United Arab Emirates, and touches upon dynamics that are pertinent across the Arabian Peninsula. There is great work on the Arabian Peninsula these days, and I hope Spaceship in the Desert contributes to the scholarship on this region in a novel way, looking at science, technology, and design. Overall, I am very happy that the first full-length ethnography of Abu Dhabi pushes back on common orientalist tropes and analyzes how decision-makers in the United Arab Emirates shape the global conversation on urbanism, energy, and climate change. 

Finally, I care about the craft of writing, and I hope the book reflects this interest in some ways. I would like people who do not usually read ethnographies to pick up the book, and enjoy its wry humor. 

J: What other projects are you working on now?

GG: A second book project is underway. In the past ten years, I have studied the emergence of new energy infrastructures in the Arab Gulf, examining how oil-rich economies prepare for a future with less oil. This is the work that culminated in Spaceship in the Desert. In this second book project, I want to flip this question, ask how energy-poor countries that experience the impacts of climate change satisfy urgent power demands, and investigate the quick and provisional energy infrastructures they employ. 

In particular, I am looking at a floating power plant in Ghana, which supplies a quarter of the country’s electricity. Floating power plants anchor at a harbor, plug into a national grid, and generate electricity with heavy fuel oil or natural gas. The Turkish company Karadeniz Holding or, as is known across sub-Saharan Africa, Karpower, has become an increasingly popular producer of such plants in the past decade. Karpower buys old ships, retrofits them in shipyards in Tuzla, Istanbul, and leases them to countries around the world for periods of two to twenty years. 

In the book project, I am broadly asking how a floating power plant comes to emerge. What are the conditions that facilitate the materialization of such provisional infrastructure? The four chapters of the book will answer this question. They will study the construction of floating power plants in shipyards in Tuzla, Istanbul, investigate business relations between Turkey and sub-Saharan Africa by drawing on a diplomatic trip I attended with the Turkish President Erdoğan, look at the desire for skipping fossil fuels and leapfrogging to renewables in sub-Saharan Africa, and finally investigate the kinds of funding that are made available to African countries for construction of energy infrastructure. The fieldwork for the project took place mainly in Istanbul and Accra, and I am writing about a context that is very different from the United Arab Emirates. I am excited that this project allows me to continue thinking about ships and energy in this new context. 

Beyond this book project, I am working on a review piece on energy humanities, and I have articles in the pipeline about a variety of topics including Gulf Futurism, ethnographic research methods, and paper airplane tickets.

 

Excerpt from the book (pp. 54-61)

Official Opening   

The official opening of the Masdar Institute campus, perhaps a metonymical representation of Masdar City, was scheduled for November 23, 2010. The campus—which contained laboratories, residential units, classrooms, a cafeteria, a coffee shop, a small gym, and a “Knowledge Center,” as well as open landscaped areas between these facilities—was argued to be the first structure of its kind to be powered entirely by solar energy. The residential units boasted terra-cotta walls of reinforced concrete and relied on contemporary interpretations of mashrabiyas, vernacular wooden-latticed screens, to block sunlight and allow for privacy. The laboratory buildings incorporated horizontal and vertical fins and brise soleil to ensure shade inside the buildings. The Masdar Institute’s students and faculty, who were already living on campus or commuting there daily, reflected on these material conditions in daily conversations and blog posts, and they observed and sometimes guided the various architects, consultants, and visitors who regularly inspected the site.

When the day of the inauguration ceremony came, the students had important roles to play in it. A day before the event, they all received an email attachment with instructions on where they would be stationed throughout the ceremony, and how they would approach the high-profile visitors to the building, such as Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al-Nahyan, crown prince of Abu Dhabi. The document specified: “You need to identify yourselves and greet the guests by saying: Thank you for coming to Masdar Institute Inauguration, we are delighted to have you here, we will show you to the prt cars.” While six students were to welcome visitors at the prt station, fourteen others were asked to be present at the Knowledge Center, “reading, working on laptops, checking books at 1st floor of the library,” so as to allow the visitors to experience the building in operation. The remaining hundred or so students would be stationed at different locations on campus at different times.

The students were provided with a fact sheet with answers to questions such as “What makes Masdar City special?” as well as reference points for their potential conversations with guests. They would redeploy Masdar’s marketing and promotional campaigns, this time through informal conversations, while making use of the half-working material artifacts on site as props. What they staged would serve as a natural representation of the future of Masdar Institute, with busy students absorbed in their work, “reading, working on laptops, checking books at the 1st floor of the library.” When presenting the Institute, it somehow made more sense to introduce that abstract future, rather than showcasing the current state of indeterminacy the fledgling institution was trying to overcome. In this performance, the students not only pretended to exist in the future, they also demonstrated the perpetual potential of the project.

[…]

The science fiction or utopia that Masdar Institute represented was further enacted and confirmed through high-profile visits to the campus. By relying on a predetermined statement about the campus, the marketing department employees introduced the various research projects on site to their guests, which ranged from Hollywood celebrities such as Adrian Brody and James Cameron, to politicians such as U.S. Secretary of State Hilary Clinton and South Korean Prime Minister Kim Hwang-sik, to investors interested in building eco-hotel chains or organic grocery stores. These high-profile visits not only helped showcase the multiple advancements on renewable energy and clean technology, but also supported publicity campaigns in national and international media outlets. When the movie star Clive Owen toured the Masdar Institute, for instance, his comments ran under the headline “Masdar Looks Like a City from the Future: Owen” in the national English-language newspaper Khaleej Times. Owen, who had starred in acclaimed science fiction films such as Children of Men (2006), suggested that a science fiction film be shot at the Institute.

But some of Masdar’s employees voiced concerns about these guided tours. “You can’t question the marketing statements,” one Masdar executive told me during a conversation in his office. “Then I hear people ridiculing the place on the [private tour] bus, because they’re not stupid. So we have to tell them the truth.” He continued, “Here, when someone says it works, you have to agree, even though you’re wrong.” Around the time of our conversation, an article appeared in a German publication titled “The Ruptured Dream of the Desert City Masdar” (Der geplatzte Traum der Wüstenstadt Masdar). The article described Masdar City as “a mirage that falls apart as you get closer to it,” and argued that the technologies Masdar promoted did not actually work. Finally, it concluded, Masdar is “a lesson for howdelusions of grandeur, technical mistakes, and above all poor planning can rob a fascinating idea of its credibility.” Executives at Masdar City, above all Sultan Al-Jaber, the chief executive officer whom the article directly criticized, were enraged. A Masdar employee who was on her way out of the company told me that she very much agreed with the points the article made. While indicating perpetual potential, the repeated performance of a totalizing future could cause the Masdar City project to slowly lose its credibility, rendering it a disappointing mirage. 

Abu Dhabi is perceived to be a perfect location for harnessing solar energy. However, according to Mahmood, a thirty-something Egyptian-born engineer at Masdar, this perception was not completely accurate. Upon finishing his PhD at an American university, and wishing to be closer to home, Mahmood had accepted a position at Masdar as his first job. As we chatted outside a solar power station, he stated that high levels of dust and humidity were blocking direct solar rays and causing thick coatings on the solar panels, diminishing their effective functioning. “Although we can’t fix the first problem that easily, we have found a solution for the second problem,” he continued. “We call it ‘man with a brush.’” 

There were ongoing experiments at a small solar power station on the Masdar City site as well as many other testing sites around the world, but during the time of our conversation, none of them had been put into large-scale use. In Mahmood’s understanding, the man with a brush, a worker dedicated to gently wiping away dust and mud from the solar panels, became part of the picture, only to reveal the infrastructural potential embedded within the solar panels. Man with a brush could perform a feat that extensive technological innovations could not so far handle, and therefore was fundamental to the emergent renewable energy and clean technology sector of Abu Dhabi. The man with a brush was South Asian or perhaps from the Philippines, he shared a room with other workers in a labor camp outside Abu Dhabi, and he walked around the Masdar City site cleaning solar panels on a daily basis. Overall, the immigrant labor force served as a most effective and essential resource for the materialization and functioning of renewable energy and clean technology infrastructures in the UAE. Yet these humans, who were making the infrastructure work, were most often perceived as disposable tools. Masdar City attempted to help humanity fight climate change and energy scarcity problems, but its understanding of humanity was particular and selective. It did not include the man with a brush. 

When I asked Mohammed, a Bangladeshi man who worked in the kitchen and served the Masdar Institute president’s guests, earning six hundred dirham per month (roughly US$160) in exchange for roughly two hundred hours of work, if he knew why so many individuals and groups find the campus worthy of a visit, he shook his head no, then added that a professor at the Institute had told him that solar panels provide energy to the campus. A few days later, Daniel, the on-site architect with Foster + Partners, criticized the conception of renewable energy and clean technology within the compounds of the UAE. “How could sustainability truly be targeted when there is this little attention paid to human capital?” he asked, pointing to the harsh working conditions for the large populations of migrant workers within the United Arab Emirates. Daniel had spent most of his professional career in the United Kingdom prior to moving to Abu Dhabi for the Masdar project, and he had also lived in Germany. He told me that “sustainability is also about claiming some sort of justice, and making sure that what we build leads this very young country toward a better direction. It is also about some kind of equality.” Daniel emphasized that the manual labor that was enabling the construction and maintenance of the projects was too often glossed over, at times framed as a disposable tool, and finally excluded from the future of the spaceship in the desert.

At Masdar City, oil would cease to be the main currency, driverless electric pods would replace cars, and, eventually, possible environmental problems would be avoided through meticulous research and technological discovery. In this science fiction–style narrative, the social and political injustices did not seem to matter much.

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      Retrofitting Materials, Retooling Expertise

      My first book, Spaceship in the Desert, studied the emergence of new energy infrastructure in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), examining how oil-rich economies prepare for a future with less oil. In my current book project, I flip this question and ask how energy-poor countries satisfy urgent power demands and investigate the quick and provisional energy infrastructures they employ. Specifically, I look at a Turkish-built floating power plant in Ghana, which has been operational since 2016. This particular ship-cum-generator has been a useful lens through which I can analyze the wider world of electricity production. After having conducted fieldwork with an international team of mainly UAE-based engineers who focus on future-oriented high-tech innovation, I am now collaborating with Turkish and Ghanaian energy experts. Mostly based in Ghana, these experts retrofit existing materials for new ends, and value maintenance and repair work above all else. One part of my current research asks whether and how this movement towards maintenance, repair, and retrofitting triggers transformations in engineering epistemologies. In aligning themselves with these trends, how do engineers retool and adapt their existing sets of expertise?

Nathalie Peutz, Islands of Heritage: Conservation and Transformation in Yemen (New Texts Out Now)

Nathalie Peutz, Islands of Heritage: Conservation and Transformation in Yemen (Stanford University Press, November 2018).

Jadaliyya (J): What made you write this book?

Nathalie Peutz (NP): During the build up to the 2003 US invasion of Iraq, I was unable to secure the necessary travel permit to leave Yemen’s capital Sanaa. One of the few places in Yemen to which I was permitted to travel was Soqotra Island, some 240 miles offshore. During my brief visit there, I became intrigued by how events such as the Iraq war and relatively new political configurations such as the Republic of Yemen were being viewed and experienced by a population at the geographic and cultural margins of the Arabian Peninsula. Often dismissed as remote or romanticized as undiscovered, the Soqotra Archipelago was already gaining global recognition as one of the most biologically diverse places in the world. It was also being shaped by several integrated conservation and development projects, which introduced concepts such as “the environment” and “heritage” to Soqotra’s (self-described) Bedouin population. 

A year and a half later, I moved into a newly-designated protected area to research the effects of this environmental governance—what Soqotrans called “the arrival of the Environment”—on its pastoral community. What I found was deep ambivalence toward these conservation and development projects, as well as toward the expanding reach of the Yemeni state and the growing presence of (mainland) Yemeni migrants, Gulf-based Soqotran emigrants, and foreign researchers and tourists. Yet, the increasing international and state focus on Soqotra’s “natural heritage” generated a concerted interest among Soqotran islanders and emigrants in their threatened cultural heritage: a heritage that they could better define, control, and potentially profit from. Ultimately, these Soqotrans’ grassroots efforts to assemble, promote, and mobilize their cultural and linguistic heritage dovetailed with and lent weight to their calls for political and cultural change during the 2011–2012 Yemen revolution. 

This example of heritage mobilization in Soqotra is instructive because it disrupts the prevailing critical interpretation of heritage as an expert-driven process that is inherently conservative and nostalgic. Much of the scholarship on the booming heritage industry in Arab-majority societies has focused on the exclusionary and often violent effects of their predominantly top-down, state-funded, and expert-curated heritage projects. Islands of Heritage, by contrast, offers one of the few grounded analyses of the grassroots mobilization of heritage in the region. I wrote this book to explore how this happened—and to show that far from being merely a conservative endeavor, the protection of heritage can have profoundly transformative, even revolutionary effects. 

This multi-pronged focus was necessary because heritage is not an isolated enterprise.

J: What particular topics, issues, and literatures does the book address?

NP: This ethnography examines the implementation, impact, and intersection of environmental conservation, development projects, and heritage protections in a “natural” World Heritage Site. This multi-pronged focus was necessary because heritage is not an isolated enterprise. Indeed, the book argues that because heritage discourses, materials, and practices circulate globally, regionally, and through time, we cannot fully understand their effects without evaluating them in context of other development, conservation, and tutelary projects that have come before and alongside them. Thus, the book contains chapters tracing British colonial and Yemeni state interventions in Soqotra, conservation efforts and environmental orientalism, development projects and land disputes, and competing notions (“islands”) of heritage in the twenty-first century. But it also addresses themes of hospitality and sovereignty, histories of Soqotra-Gulf migration, contemporary concerns of ethnic and linguistic minorities in Arab-majority societies, and the reach of the Yemeni revolution.

J: How does this book connect to and/or depart from your previous work?

NP: Prior to my fieldwork in Soqotra, I had conducted preliminary research on Somali refugees and Yemeni return migrants living in squatter settlements on the outskirts of Aden and Hudaydah. This project was an extension of my earlier work on deportation (see, for example, “The Deportation Regime: Sovereignty, Space, and the Freedom of Movement”). Islands of Heritage may seem like a significant departure from my research on forced migration. However, I see both projects connected through their ethnographic focus on the mobilities and immobilities generated by modern regulatory regimes, such as migration, conservation, and heritage regimes. I am particularly interested in the effects of these regimes on marginalized communities in the Western Indian Ocean region, including refugees, migrants, and ethnic or linguistic minorities. As my research demonstrates, insights into the lived experiences of deportation in Somaliland or the strategic uses of abjection in Soqotra contribute to our understanding of how these global regimes impact people’s daily lives.

J: Who do you hope will read this book, and what sort of impact would you like it to have?

NP: I expect this book will appeal to readers interested in environmental conservation and heritage protections in the Arab world, in general, and in Yemen’s Soqotra Archipelago, in particular. The book can also be read as an ethnography of the unification and unraveling of the Republic of Yemen as seen through the eyes of one of its more peripheral populations. As its readers will discover, however, the book does not limit its scope to Soqotra or even to Yemen, but foregrounds and discusses the significant movements of peoples, objects, and ideas between this Indian Ocean archipelago, mainland Yemen, Oman, and the United Arab Emirates. For example, it reveals the central influence of the Soqotran Gulf-based diaspora and of Gulf–island transmissions (of materials and other resources) in framing island-wide debates over the nature of Soqotran heritage, history, and identity. It shows how ideas of heritage were not simply introduced to the islanders through UN bodies and their foreign experts, but were also directly based on models imported from Oman and the United Arab Emirates. The book underscores, in other words, how cultural and political transformations in Soqotra—and by extension, in Yemen—cannot be examined in isolation from peoples and projects in the rest of the Arabian Peninsula.

Thus, I hope this book will help to bridge the common academic division between Yemen studies and Gulf studies. I also hope it will convince its readers that Soqotra is not an “untouched” island paradise just waiting for outside guidance and assistance. In fact, Soqotra has a long and lingering history of dubious foreign interventions. It has also generated a tremendous body of archaeological, biological, botanical, historical, and linguistic scholarship, research findings that should not be ignored by new, incoming project teams. These academic concerns notwithstanding, I wrote this book largely with my Soqotran interlocutors and a general readership in mind. With so much scholarship and media focused on Soqotra’s “alien” landscape, I hope my readers will come to care about Soqotra’s remarkable people through the individuals they encounter in its pages. Finally, I would be most gratified if this book were to one day serve as a meaningful testament, for a new generation of Soqotrans, to some of the many challenges their elders once weathered.

J: What other projects are you working on now? 

NP: I am currently writing my second monograph, tentatively titled Gate of Tears: Migration and Impasse in Yemen and the Horn of Africa. This project builds on my earlier work on forced migration across and around the Red Sea. Yemen’s devastating war has resulted in an unprecedented humanitarian crisis, including widespread hunger and massive internal displacement. It has also led to thousands of African refugees and Yemeni nationals fleeing Yemen for the Horn of Africa, even as thousands of African refugees and migrants continue to enter war-torn Yemen on their way to Saudi Arabia, where they hope to find work. Having followed the plight of Somali refugees in Yemen in the 2000s, I was especially struck by the fact that Yemeni nationals were now seeking refuge in Somalia, among other countries. 

Consequently, in 2016, I began conducting ethnographic research on Yemeni refugees in the Horn of Africa with a focus on the households living in Djibouti’s Markazi camp. I wondered to what degree the 2015 flight of refugees from Yemen had been set in motion by their family histories of mobility, mixed marriages, and forced migration. How have their prior transnational connections—and displacements—facilitated or constrained their ability to escape Yemen, and the camp? The resulting book analyzes this complex set of displacements in a geopolitically-sensitive region where encamped Yemeni refugees come into direct daily contact with Ethiopian migrants walking toward Yemen.

J: What about the United Arab Emirates’ reported takeover of Soqotra? Does your book address the UAE’s current military and political presence there? 

NP: Islands of Heritage focuses on the period of 2003–2013, on the years just before and after the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) inscribed the Soqotra Archipelago as a World Heritage Site (in 2008). It discusses the United Arab Emirates’ humanitarian aid to Soqotra which was ramped up following the outbreak of Yemen’s war (especially after Soqotra suffered two back-to-back cyclones in the fall of 2015). But the book was already in press when the United Arab Emirates deployed troops to Soqotra in April 2018. What this book does provide is archival, historical, and ethnographically-grounded context for the United Arab Emirates’ current interventions, ones that are both contested and welcomed by different groups of Soqotrans. At this time, in the midst of Yemen’s ongoing war in which several of the Arab Gulf states are deeply implicated, it is more important than ever to understand these regional connections. 

 

Excerpt from the book

Introduction

The poets were waiting. It was a morning in late 2011—nearly a year into Yemen’s revolution—and nine Soqotran poet contestants from across the island had gathered in a derelict courtyard to prepare for the opening night of the annual Festival of Soqotri Poetry. Up to that point, poetry had been a valued register through which to express local cultural ideals and political frustrations. But this was to be a turning point: emboldened by the Arab uprisings, the recitations would for the first time openly challenge the history of intrusive governance “from [across] the sea” (Soq.: min rinhem). I sat with the nervous poets, many of them semiliterate pastoralists, as they awaited the arrival of local teacher and activist Fahd Saleem, one of the competition’s key organizers.

Meanwhile, Fahd was at the other end of town leading a protest against the national airline, Yemenia, which had relinquished its Soqotra routes to a more expensive competitor. Earlier that morning I had driven past the demonstration outside Yemenia’s local office, parked my car, and got out to observe the crowd of self-proclaimed revolutionaries assembled: dozens of men and several women who were demonstrating regularly against the Saleh regime and for revolution in Yemen. Fahd was delivering an impassioned speech, bullhorn in hand, arguing that Yemenia’s presumably pragmatic financial decision was a grave atrocity—all the more so because it was government sanctioned. On a distant island lacking even basic medical equipment, he declared, the absence of regular, price-controlled flights to the mainland had added a high premium to the cost of Soqotran life. 

When Fahd arrived at the courtyard of poets, he gave another rousing speech, this time about the significance of the festival. Fahd described having lived through a period in which “the system” convinced Soqotrans that the use of their own language was shameful. He applauded the poets for their role in preserving Soqotran cultural heritage—especially the Soqotri language, which had been losing ground to the hegemonic spread of Arabic on the island. He decried the partisan divisions that had recently emerged among Soqotrans as they debated Yemen’s uncertain future. And through concern that the competition itself would become another site of tension, he pronounced the festival a unifying event of which “the ultimate winner is Soqotra.” After the address, I commended him for having organized the protest in the morning and a poetry festival that same day. “It’s all part of the same work,” he replied.

What is this “work” that connects a poetry festival in the name of heritage (turath) to a demonstration against a national airline in the name of revolution (thawra)? And how can we reconcile the seeming incongruity between heritage cultivation to reduce the effects of change by preserving cultural artifacts and traditions, and popular revolution to achieve significant change in political and socioeconomic conditions? Heritage, after all, is widely regarded as inherently conservative (conservationist) and nostalgic. Moreover, scholarship on the heritage industry in Arab-majority societies has focused primarily on the exclusionary and violent effects of top-down heritage projects or on their nationalist displays of political and cultural unity. This is especially the case in the Arabian Peninsula, where the engineering of heritage functions foremost as a form of nation branding by governments to kindle nationalism and cultivate tourism and, crucially, where heritage is principally a state-funded and expert-curated endeavor. In light of these conventional critiques and presentations of heritage, what can this example of grassroots mobilization at the margins of Arabia tell us about the power of heritage in the context of the Arab uprisings—and at a time when heritage sites in Yemen and other Arab-majority nations are being destroyed by dynamite and dropped bombs?

*** 

The Republic of Yemen is one of the poorest, hungriest, and least-developed countries in the world. Even prior to the start of the war in March 2015, Yemen was struggling. Over half of its population lived below the poverty line, surviving on less than two dollars per day. More than 40 percent of its population was malnourished, and more than 60 percent required humanitarian assistance to meet their daily basic needs. In 2018, as this book goes to press, Yemen’s civilians are suffering critical shortages of food, water, fuel, and medicines; a recurrent cholera epidemic; and large-scale internal displacement—in addition to the untold deaths and injuries from three years of warfare.

Yemen is also one of the world’s driest countries. If not for its protracted war and spreading famine, Yemen’s pressing environmental problems could in themselves constitute a humanitarian crisis. The most acute of these challenges include the country’s extraordinary rates of land degradation, deforestation, pollution, and, above all, groundwater depletion. Hydrologists have long predicted that Sanaa will run out of economically viable water supplies by 2020. Another way of saying this is that Sanaa, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, may be the world’s first capital to become uninhabitable for lack of water. When this happens, Yemen’s environmentally displaced persons (environmental refugees) may eclipse its already unprecedented number of persons displaced by conflict.

In addition to this human suffering, Yemen’s rich cultural heritage has been hit hard. Since the start of the war, some twenty-five archaeological sites and monuments have been damaged or destroyed by aerial bombardments, including the ancient dam of Marib, a museum holding more than ten thousand artifacts, mountaintop citadels, and a historic neighborhood in the Old City of Sanaa. In July 2015, UNESCO placed two of Yemen’s three “cultural” World Heritage Sites—the Old City of Sanaa and the Old Walled City of Shibam—onto its List of World Heritage in Danger. (Yemen’s third “cultural” site, the Historic Town of Zabid, had been moved to this list a decade and half earlier due to its deterioration.) Yemen has a fourth, “natural” World Heritage Site that is not officially endangered: its biologically diverse Soqotra Archipelago. Protected as much as imperiled by its distance from the Arabian Peninsula, the archipelago is the one governorate of Yemen that has not seen armed conflict. Nevertheless, Soqotra’s natural and cultural environments have been profoundly affected by Yemen’s 2011 revolution and its current war.

This book examines the impact of development, conservation, and heritage projects in prewar Yemen by tracing the intersections of these projects in Soqotra, the largest island of the eponymous archipelago. Soqotra has long been imagined by outsiders as a “protected” island, a natural enclosure for safeguarding plants and peoples. Situated at the maritime crossroads between the Arabian Peninsula and the Horn of Africa yet inaccessible by sea during the southwest monsoon season, it has a history of being conceived as both central to foreign interests and isolated from external events. But over the span of a decade, this relatively remote Western Indian Ocean island—one of the most marginalized places in Yemen—was transformed into an internationally recognized protected area, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and (until recently) a prime destination for ecotourism. During this period, Soqotra’s rural pastoralists accommodated and sustained a series of integrated conservation and development projects (ICDPs) as a de facto state. They also responded to the UNESCO World Heritage Convention’s problematic nature-culture divide—and what had effectively become the commandeering of their environment as a global commons—by appropriating the language of heritage to claim a place for themselves that could withstand hegemonic cultural influences. Despite its recognition as a natural World Heritage Site—one of only a handful of such natural sites in the Arab world—Soqotra stands out not only for its unique biotic species but also for its indigenous inhabitants’ endangered language (Soqotri) and distinctive culture. This book investigates how the archipelago’s recent ascendance has motivated everyday Soqotrans to actively create, curate, and mobilize their cultural heritage in a period of political upheaval to negotiate increased autonomy from the embattled Yemeni state.